Even the cashmere clothes with the best quality will have slight fuzzing and pilling at the beginning of wearing. Therefore, according to the national standard, as long as the pilling level of cashmere clothes does not exceed the allowable range, they are qualified products.
So, why do cashmere clothes fuzz? Now let's make a detailed analysis.
Why do cashmere clothes fuzz?
First, it is related to the characteristics of cashmere fiber.
First of all, compared with wool, cashmere has smaller fineness, shorter length, fewer curls, less cohesion of fibers in the yarn, more exposed fibers, and is slippery and waxy, which is easy to slip from the fabric under the effect of external forces, resulting in pile shedding and pilling.
In addition, because the surface of cashmere fiber is full of scales, when the fiber assembly is subjected to the non directional external force, the fibers under the force against the scales are easy to move to the root, resulting in the directional friction effect, resulting in cashmere shedding; At the same time, due to the spine lock between scales and the elasticity of the fiber body, the fibers are easy to cross and tangle with each other, resulting in the unique felting of animal fibers.
Secondly, cashmere fiber has poor conductivity. When the clothes are worn, the fibers rub against each other, causing charges to gather in the fibers, generating static electricity. The fibers with high dielectric coefficient have positive charges, while the fibers with high dielectric coefficient have negative charges. For example, when chemical fibers rub with cashmere, chemical fibers are negatively charged and cashmere fibers are positively charged. The fibers with different charges attract each other, which is easy to make fabric pile and pilling, especially when the weather is dry.
Thirdly, the more crimp waves the fiber has, the less easy it is to stretch when twisting, and the fiber is easy to loose and slip during friction, forming fuzziness on the yarn surface. Therefore, the better the crimp of the fiber, the easier the pilling. The thinner the fiber, the more fiber ends exposed on the yarn surface, and the better the fiber flexibility, so the fine fiber is easier to entangle than the coarse fiber. In terms of fiber length, shorter fibers are easier to fuzz and pilling than longer fibers. Because there are more free fibers and the friction and cohesion between short fibers are smaller, the fibers are easy to slide to the surface of the fabric, which is easy to produce pilling.
In addition, the twist and surface finish of the yarn also have a great impact on pilling. The yarn with high twist is tightly held between the fibers. When the yarn is subject to friction, the fiber slips relatively less from the inside of the yarn, reducing pilling; As cashmere clothing is a soft fabric, too high twist will make the fabric hard, so it cannot prevent pilling by increasing twist. The influence of yarn finish: the smoother the yarn is, the shorter and less hairy the surface is, so the smooth yarn is not easy to pilling.
Second, it is related to the fabric structure.
The fabric with loose structure is easier to fuzz and pilling than the fabric with tight structure. When the fabric with tight structure rubs with external objects, it is not easy to produce fuzz. The existing fuzz, due to the large friction resistance between fibers, is not easy to slide to the surface of the fabric, so it can reduce the phenomenon of fuzzing and pilling. Fabric with loose density is easier to fuzz and pilling than fabric with tight density. Fabric with flat surface is not easy to pilling, while fabric with uneven surface is easy to pilling.
Third, it is related to the influence of dyeing and finishing process.
After dyeing and finishing, the anti pilling property of yarn or fabric will be greatly affected, which is related to dyes, auxiliaries and dyeing and finishing process conditions. Yarns dyed with skein are easier to pillage than those dyed with loose wool or wool sliver; Fabrics dyed with finished garments are easier to pilling than those dyed with yarns; After setting, especially after finishing with resin, the anti pilling property of the fabric will be greatly enhanced.
Fourth, it is related to the influence of wearing conditions.
During the wearing process of cashmere clothing, due to the friction and other effects exerted by the outer cover (such as the coat), one end of the shorter fibers in the yarn slips out and intertwines on the fabric surface to form balls. Cashmere fiber is thinner and shorter than wool fiber. In addition, common cashmere sweaters are rough combed products, and the short fiber content in cashmere yarn is higher, which makes it easier to tangle with each other.
Therefore, when cashmere clothing is worn inside, the lining of the matching coat should be smooth, not too rough and hard, and the inner bag should not contain hard objects, so as to avoid local friction and pilling; When wearing out, do not rub the sleeve against the desktop, the sleeve against the armrests of the sofa, and the back against the sofa for a long time. The wearing time should not be too long. Pay attention to wearing intermittently and alternately to restore the elasticity and avoid fiber fatigue damage.
After the pilling of cashmere clothing occurs, do not pull it by hand. The correct method is to cut the wool ball with scissors after washing. After several times of washing, the pilling of cashmere clothing will gradually disappear as some loose fibers fall off.
